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trey
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[*] posted on 5-29-2012 at 09:53 AM
Boat starts then dies


have a 1997 rinker captiva 232 cuddy, 350 with the 250 horse, i know its weak! lol..

it will start right up and run about 30-45 seconds and dies, starts right back and repeats, will do this all day.

changed fuel filter and still no difference. fresh fuel. had it running in the driveway for about 10 -15 minutes when i was summerizing it for last weekend. ran great with no hiccups or anything. when it does run it will take fuel and throttle until the dreaded 30-45 seconds and dies.

any suggestions?
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[*] posted on 5-29-2012 at 09:57 AM


I would start by looking for a vacuum leak. Possibly one of the hoses has come loose.
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[*] posted on 5-29-2012 at 10:16 AM


Mine did the same thing. Replaced the cap, rotor button, and the part under the rotor button (cant remember what it was called but that part was the problem). Cost like 30 bucks to replace.
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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 08:46 PM


ok replaced cap and button, also have tried 2 fuel pumps as decided it was running out of pressure. i can idle in no wake speed all day now, and get up to about 2300 rpm. when it hits 3500 trying to get on plane, it falls flat on its face. throttle back and it will stay running. running around at about 2200 rom it would want to die but come back to life like its surging.

any ideas is greatly appreciated.
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 08:50 PM


Fuel Filter? Might even have two of them one in line and one at the entry of the Carb.



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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 08:52 PM


Sounds electrical to me



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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 08:54 PM


Replaced fuel saparator filter and checked and although it was clean, cleaned the filter in line @ the inlet of the carb.

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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 08:58 PM


I would try a different carb if you have one available to try, sounds like the accelerator pump is weak in yours. Some people are real good at rebuilding those quadrajets, but for $250 you can bolt on a new Edlebrock and be done with it.



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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 09:20 PM


im thinking its carb related. i tapped the bottom pretty hard while idleing in neutral about 3000 rpm ,and heard it gain a few rpms, i immediatley put in gear after throttling back and it still did it.



now let me ask this:

i didnt use the mercruiser fuel pump, i picked up a pump from napa and it has 10-15 psi, but didnt remove or kill the power to the old pump being it is inline from the separator to the inlet of carb, could this be an issue? i simply put mine inline from the tank to the separator.
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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 09:21 PM


and will any 350 carb work, my neighbor has a ton of em off cars, will they or can they bolt on and b ok?
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 09:53 PM


Marine carbs are rated for marine use. You should not use an automotive carb, period.

Have you checked to make sure the fuel vent line is not plugged up with an insect nest, or the screen on it full of compound or wax?

I would venture to say the carb has issues. It is probalby nasty on the inside and needs to be rebuilt.




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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 09:56 PM


blew the lines both ways and gas poured out of them so no blockages. that is from the tank line to the filler neck all thru the tank.
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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 10:15 PM


could it be that i have the pump b4 the fuel filter/separator in stead of after it?
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trey
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[*] posted on 6-20-2012 at 10:18 PM


if i try to put it after the filter is rubber fuel line ok or do i REALLY have to use an alum line?
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 07:53 AM


You should have the aluminum fuel line connected to the rigid (doesn't vibrate) parts of the fuel system.
There should be flexible (rubber as you say) fuel line connecting the rigid components to the engine (it vibrates).
If you don't, the aluminum will become case hardened due to vibration and break.

If the vacuum lines are OK, I would either overhaul the carburetor or at least run some Gum Out Cleaner
through the system. If you have notice, the more fuel you put through the system, the higher the RPM
and the longer the engine runs has increased based upon your description.

Do you use Marine Sta-bil and do you store your boat with a full fuel tank or an empty one?
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 08:28 AM


Generally speaking on boats, fuel filters are either before the fuel pump, or are hard plumbed into the pressure line with double flared fittings. They are typically not installed using rubber hoses on the pressure side of the system because if the hose failed, pressure from the pump would throw a shower of gasoline on top of the hot engine.

Usually, the only flexible hose in the fuel system will be on the suction side where it is protected from leaking if compromised by the fuel tank's anti siphon valve in the hose barb at the tank pickup.

Surging is generally a sign of not enough fuel. It is totally cutting out over 3000 rpms simply because the system cannot deliver enough fuel to meet the demand in the higher engine rpm range. It would probably run fine all day on a hose in neutral.

You have some sort of restriction, I would guess, and based on what you have said so far, I would get the carb redone if it were me.

Mechaincal issues like this are tough to help you with over the net. There are simply too many variables that it could be that get missed when you are not there in person, so take my advice knowing it is the best I can do from behind a keyboard.

Good luck with it.





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trey
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 08:29 AM


I try to store empty. Prolly had 10 gallons w stabil in it. At lest a 50 gal tank.
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 11:21 AM


A couple of summers ago we had the same sorta problem on our 1997 merc 350. Had the carburetor rebuilt and a couple of adjustments made and now it runs as good as ever. I would go that route if I were you.
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 06:22 PM


Had a boat doing the same thing. Turn out to be a lift tube in the tank. Dam ethanol gas, had eaten right through the plastic tube.
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trey
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[*] posted on 6-21-2012 at 06:43 PM


There is no way to get into my tank. Period. No access panel or nothin. I guess a chain saw would work. That was told to me by a fellow @ Rinker. He was so nice and understanding. Randy Rinker is his name. He didn't have to call me back especially after I dropped his call while finally takin it to the shop. He called me back and left a voicemail saying he would give me a while to get service and call back. And he called. That's customer service.
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[*] posted on 6-22-2012 at 06:08 AM


Quote: Originally posted by trey  

There is no way to get into my tank. Period. No access panel or nothin.

Does your boat have a fuel quantity gauge? If it does, then there has to be a fuel quantity
sending unit inside the tank. There is a hole in the top of the tank somewhere that allowed
the sending unit to be installed at the factory.
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[*] posted on 6-22-2012 at 06:24 AM


When you replaced the rotor button did you replace the half moon solid state electronic controller under the rotor? When my rinker 242 did what you are talking about that controller under the rotor was at fault. It was green with corrosion. The part is cheap give that a try.
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[*] posted on 6-22-2012 at 06:26 AM


Good point. I'm just tellin ya what they told me @ Rinker.
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biggrin.gif posted on 6-22-2012 at 07:00 PM
A-Hole....


The power valve/accellerator pump diaphram has a hole in it if its a Holley, if its a quadrajet then the plunger diaphram is stuck or has a hole in it.

Lock5 was on the right track.




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trey
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[*] posted on 6-22-2012 at 07:23 PM


Its a Mercarb, which Rochester replaces. Idk I finally caved and took it to our local shop. Said hed have be out by july 4th. Which is no biggie cause Ky speedway is coming up. I will let ya know what was wrong.
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